FAQ
First of all, if you wait too long to have your carpet cleaned, there has already been permanent damage done to the fibers. The main reason for this belief can be attributed to carpet cleaners who leave the carpet either too wet, full of residue, or both. Too wet leaves suspend soils in the excessive moisture. When it dries, this soil will wick up to the top surface of the carpet fiber. Remaining residues leave fibers unclean which will attract new soils quickly, whether the carpet has been wet or dry cleaned.
Proper analysis of carpet prior to cleaning is needed to determine the correct method of cleaning. This needs to be done by a professional whose main concern is doing the job properly, no matter how much time it takes.
If your carpet is cleaned properly, there will be maximum removal of residues, quick drying, and a fresh clean carpet under your feet for months to come.
Hello again! Did you miss me? Hey, I’m doing pretty good at keeping up with these posts huh? Well, as promised, I am going to devote the next two posts to telling you about the different cleaning methods that some carpet cleaners will use. Don’t laugh too hard, some cleaners use some of these methods…
Dry foam:
The carpet cleaner applies shampoo to your carpet, allows it to dry, and then, without rinsing, sucks the dried shampoo into a vacuum. Can you imagine applying shampoo to your hair, allowing it to dry and then removing the shampoo from your head with a vacuum? This method leaves dirty residue in your carpet, which is one reason dry foam is not too effective.
Absorbent pad (bonnet cleaning):
This method is similar to dry foam, except that the company sets a large slightly damp cotton bonnet on your carpet and with a floor polishing buffer machine on top “buffs” the carpet. The rotating motion agitates your fibers while the slight dampness of the bonnet causes the bonnet to absorb dirt from your carpet. This method is also called bonnet cleaning. Bonnet cleaning leaves your carpet dry in one hour with no wicking or sticky residues left behind.
Absorbent powder:
The dry-compound method spreads a moist, absorbent powder through the carpet. The powder is allowed to dry and then sucked into a vacuum. This method leaves dry sponge particles at the base of the carpet yarn. And because the carpet is not rinsed, this method is not very effective.
Hot-water extraction:
This is a fancy way of saying that a hot water cleaning solution under high pressure is forced into your carpet and then extracted out of your carpet.
In a recent Technical Bulletin, Shaw Industries, the world’s larges carpet manufacturer, “recommends the hot-water extraction system, which research indicates provides the best capability for cleaning.”
You can choose from two different types: Truck-powered extraction, which is done with a large machine mounted in a truck or van. Or portable extraction, which is done with a small, hand-held unit.
Which is more important to you?
A clean carpet or a clean and healthy carpet? Yes, we assure you, there is a big difference.
Each carpet cleaning method has advantages and disadvantages. Some methods will get out only the dirt. Other methods will get out dirt and grease. Still others will get out virtually everything. And, to be sure, some are more expensive than others.
The truck-powered hot-water unit we use it the most effective cleaning system available today. Likewise, it’s one of the most expensive units on the market. But we bought this unit for a good reason: More and more families want the good health benefits that come from having a fresh, clean carpet.
Have you ever seen how dirty a little boy’s pants get when he plays outdoors? If you have, then you know you can brush off his pants and make him think they’re clean. Or, if you want the job done right, you can machine wash them in hot water and detergent and you’ll KNOW they’re clean.
It can be embarrassing to live in a home that smells like cat urine. If your pet is having problems finding the litter box, there are several home remedies and commercially available products that can neutralize the smell.
Cat urine is a highly-concentrated substance containing several types of bacteria and uric acid. Regular soap and water are not strong enough to remove every trace of the odor from carpets. Even if the scent is undetectable to a human nose, there is a chance your cat could still smell it and be more inclined to urinate in the same area again.
Homemade stuff
Homemade solutions include a mixture of baking soda, water and vinegar. The baking soda absorbs the odor, while the vinegar and water work to neutralize the urine particles. MIXING STUFF IS NOT A GOOD PRACTICE!! PEOPLE DIE EVERY YEAR FROM MIXING STUFF.
Commercial products
Commercial cleaning products containing enzymes work best. These products contain organic material that eat the odor causing bacteria in cat urine carpet accidents.
Considerations
Test your chosen cleaner, whether it is a household remedy or commercially-available cleaner, in an inconspicuous spot on your carpet. Some cleaners may damage fibers or remove dyes.
Expert Insight
If you cannot successfully remove a cat urine smell, speak to a carpet cleaning professional, like us. We are trained to assess the condition of the carpet, any possibilities of cleaning it, as well as whether the carpet or sub-carpet flooring need to be replaced.
Although bleach is effective on non-porous surfaces like tile and countertops, its ionic structure is too large to penetrate into porous materials such as wood and drywall leaving the hyphae (the root system) to recolonize.
Bleach is not always effective at killing mold, especially if the mold is present on a porous or fibrous material, like wood or sheet rock. If mold growth is significant, it is better to remove the impacted material, rather than treat it.
For some surfaces that are harder to remove, like wood framing in homes, it may be necessary to complete multiple treatments with a stronger chlorine solution than is found in bleach.
Cleaning the mold also does not fix the underlying moisture problem that is allowing the mold to grow. Mold should not grow without a moisture source, so if mold is growing on a wall, there may be a hidden leak somewhere or there may be a problem with water intrusion from outside.
If mold is growing on sheet rock, there are may be a larger, hidden problem inside the wall space, which is not accessible without removing the sheet rock.
In the average home over two million dust mites feed on dead skin scales and other debris. They hide in your carpet, upholstery, drapes, mattress, and pillows. Mites can double their numbers in ten hours, and produce ten to twenty pieces of feces per day. You get 100,000 dead bodies and thirty million pieces of feces added to your home everyday. Microscopic mite feces and corpses are so small that they blow up into the air as you walk around your house, and they get into your lungs. Eighty percent of Americans who suffer from allergies are allergic to airborne mite refuse.
The problem is that you cannot stop dust mites from invading.
Step 1: GET RID OF THE CLUTTER!
This can be very personal for some of us. After all, we more than likely paid hard earned money for the things in our home. A good rule of thumb to follow is if you haven’t used it in six months, it’s probably time to part with it. You just need to weigh your options and make a decision; do you save last months newspaper and magazines or do you want to have a healthy home?
Plastic storage totes are great options for storage of small items like children’s toys, and make great temporary storage for recyclable paper products. Totes can be wiped off very easily.
Plastic clothing bags are a great option for storage of off season clothes. They will take up less room and keep airborne particulate from invading.
Book cases with doors are a better option than open book cases. Yes, they are more costly but they make the cleaning process much easier.
- Sort your stuff and get rid of what you do not need
- Everything should have a place
- Cover or encase items not being used
Low Humidity
Maintain a relative humidity level of 30 percent to 50 percent in your home. Dust mites cannot survive in dry environments. Repair any leaks or sources of condensation that can raise humidity levels. Use a dehumidifier and be sure to empty the pan regularly.
Cleaning Carpets
Clean all carpets with a superheated steam. Dust mites deep inside the carpet cannot be removed by vacuuming. Removing dust mites from linens, pillows, curtains and furniture will help to prevent dust mites from settling in the carpet. Clean fabrics in water of at least 130 degrees Fahrenheit or have them dry cleaned. Use superheated steam to clean furniture upholstery and draperies.
Prevention
Remove carpet from high-moisture areas such as kitchens and bathrooms, where dust mites can thrive. Carpet laid over concrete is especially vulnerable to dust mites.
On One Hand: If You Dry It Quickly
According to Allergy Consumer Review, you can salvage a flooded carpet if you dry it within 48 hours of the flooding and if the material is synthetic. Mold is less likely to grow on synthetic fibers. Dry the carpet out by taking it out of the home, and deep clean it after you put it back.
On the Other: Sewage and Time Delays
You shouldn’t salvage a carpet that is underwater or wet for more than 48 hours. Also, flood waters can carry dangerous debris that can include sewage contamination. If you suspect your carpet is contaminated with sewage, don’t try to save it. Replace it as soon as possible.
Bottom Line
Your ability to salvage carpet depends on the severity of the flood and the time it takes to drain the basement. If it’s a small level of water and you drain it within a day or two, you can often save the carpeting. If the flooding is severe or brings in questionable sediment, don’t try to save it. Take pictures for insurance purposes, and file a claim with the insurance company to replace the flooring.
IF YOU DRY YOUR CARPET YOURSELF, ALWAYS REPLACE THE CARPET PAD. Your shop vac just doesn’t have the suction to remove the water from it.
I won’t disagree with the manufacturers cleaning recommends, since it does provide guidance to assist consumers in determining colorfastness to spotting or cleaning agents.
However, I will say, many times it’s there to provide liability protection for them because they do not know the skill level or qualifications of the consumer or I’ll add, the cleaning technician. The guidance they provide by recommending “dry clean only” is very safe because no one can ruin the fabric or dyes with dry cleaning solvents or techniques.
In addition, let me emphasize, someone who uses dry cleaning techniques will not be able to effectively clean your soiled upholstery. Dry cleaning is not much more that a dusting of your fabric. The fact is dry cleaning solvents will not dissolve water based soiling, and by far the majority of your soiling is water-soluble. For example, let me illustrate, would you think of washing your oily hair with dry cleaning solvents? No, you use hot water and a good shampoo. The same is true for your upholstery. Low moisture, proper cleaning chemistry and safe cleaning techniques are vital to ensure good results. Anyone who uses dry cleaning solvents to clean soiled upholstery is wasting your money and simply does not understand how to properly clean fabrics.
With the arrival of colder weather most people spend more time indoors. If you’re like most of us, you’ll find that sinus congestion increases at this time of year as well. At first glance, it doesn’t make much sense! After-all, there’s fewer pollens in the house & fewer molds too … right? NOT! So what do you do?
If your like most people, the first thing you do is perform a good cleaning in the house; you vacuum your carpets and rugs, wash all of your beddings, even change the filters in your furnace … all of which are great steps, but you’re still stuffed up like the turkey you had on Thanksgiving! Now desperation sets in and you go to the pharmacy and buy something for relief.
We wrote this post to help you better understand how to Allergy proof your home. With this information, you can make an informed and intelligent plan of attack!
Since many allergens float in the air, they are hard to avoid. Cleaning can stir up the air and the allergens in it. Just like the allergens in the air, cleaning products can sometimes cause an asthma attack. If you have allergies or asthma, here are some important tips:
- Read & follow label directions on cleaning products. The label directions give the proper amount of product to use, how to use the product and any special safety advice.
- If you use spray products, spray the product on the cloth or sponge first instead of on the surface.
- Break your cleaning into small tasks. Spread it over several days instead of doing it all at once.
- Clean in a well ventilated area – open a door and a window or turn on an exhaust fan. Leave the room when you are done cleaning and allow the room to air out.
- Try using cleaning products that have no scent or are perfume free. Try different products to find the ones that work best for you.
- If your asthma is server, have someone else do the cleaning. Try to leave home while the cleaning is being done. If you must do the cleaning yourself, wear a mask. Have asthmatic children leave the room when the cleaning is being done.
- Use cleaning products that are “Green”. Ones without hazardous ingredients including VOC’s.
Molds are very common in nature and are to some extent always present in both indoor and outdoor air. Humans have a natural tolerance to molds and most individuals will not suffer adverse health effects from exposure to background levels of mold spores. Mold growth indoors can cause indoor levels to increase to elevated levels, a condition called mold amplification. Inhalation of a large number of mold spores can overwhelm the body’s natural defenses causing adverse health effects.
Allergic responses are the most common health problems associated with exposure to elevated levels of mold spores. These reactions may be similar to those of hay fever or exposure to high levels of pollen, such as headaches, sinus problems, congestion, sore throats, or coughing. These effects may be seasonal in nature. Many people experience allergic responses to molds in the fall when outdoor levels of molds are typically high.
Exposure to mold spores and their mycotoxins can lead to a variety of non-specific health problems such as:
- Sinus problems
- Respiratory problems (wheezing, coughing, difficulty breathing)
- Headaches
- Cold and flu-like symptoms (fever, muscle aches, fatigue)
- Sore throats
- Eye irritation
- Frequent bloody noses
The greatest factor affecting the development of health problems is individual sensitivity. Some people are naturally more sensitive to the molds than others. When a family is living in a home with elevated levels of mold spores, often only one or two family members will suffer any health problems while the other family members experience no ill effects. Individuals that are most susceptible include children, the elderly, and the immune-compromise patients, such as those undergoing chemotherapy or suffering from liver problems.
An investigation for mold growth begins with an inspection for visible mold growth. If there is no visible mold immediately noticeable, an inspection for signs of water damage is completed and areas with possible moisture sources are inspected. In general, mold requires a source of moisture to grow.
An obvious source of moisture is the bathroom. Mold growth in bathtubs, showers, and toilets is common and can usually be taken care of through regular housekeeping and maintenance. Similarly, light mold growth is often found on windowsills near the glass, where water condenses. This too can often be taken care of through regular housekeeping, and is usually not a problem unless the mold covers a large surface area or is allowed to grow unchecked such that it becomes windowsills is often a species of Cladosporium, which grows very quickly and is very common outdoors. This mold is usually not hazardous to healthy individuals unless it is present at high levels indoors. If mold growth around windows becomes a problem or a nuisance, installation of double paned windows or a ceiling fan may help to reduce condensation on the glass surface, there by limiting mold growth.
Mold growth over a large area on the windowsill or on sheet rock next to or below the windowsill is a more serious problem, as these surfaces are more likely to support the more hazardous molds, like Stachybotrys. Growth under or next to a windowsill may be the result of a construction defect or a flashing problem allowing water intrusion around the window. If water is allowed to intrude into a wall space, the paper backing on the sheet rock (a food source for molds) and the dark, stagnant air spaces create a perfect environment for mold growth to occur. If mold growth is visible on sheet rock inside a room, there may be a larger colony of mold growing on the other side of the sheet rock inside the wall space. If mold growth is suspected inside a wall space, drilling a small hole through the wall can collect an in-wall air sample.
Crawl Spaces in the south are a very common area for mold growth. The floor in your crawl space should be free of excess debris. The entire floor, extending to six inches of the parimeter, should be covered with six millimeter plastic sheeting and secured with landscape stakes. If mold is still present, ventilation and exhaust fans should be installed. These fans can be wired to a humidity activated switch.
Decompose airborne organic particles into harmless carbon dioxide and water.
With the Aid of our OdorOx unit, contaminated air is directed into the a chamber on the unit where ambient humidity and multiple nanometer wavelengths and frequencies combine to create an oxidizing formula and produce hydroxyls.
Quartz crystal optics are fine tuned to deodorize the air flow, eradicate bacteria and other microorganisms, and produce hydroxyls.
The purified air is recycled back into the environment along with hydroxyls to further decontaminate surfaces & contents.
Once the hydroxyls are created, they are sent to “seek and destroy” odor molecules, bacteria, viruses, mold, VOCs and other chemicals.
Notably, the process simultaneously decontaminates the air, surfaces, and objects.
This system does not require all of the contaminants within the room to pass through the processing chamber, which guarantees a more rapid and thorough decontamination.
Outside the unit the hydroxyls immediately begin a cascade reaction in the air, creating even more hydroxyls. The cascade of hydroxyls quickly disperse throughout the air and penetrates surfaces and objects.
Any quenched hydroxyls are continuously replaced by the system, providing constant decontamination.
Hydroxyls (·OH) are safe, naturally occurring molecules that are created in our atmosphere when the sun’s ultraviolet rays react with water vapor.
ODOROX Hydroxyl Generators replicate this natural process.
ODOROX implements a dual process attack on contaminants.
Choosing an odor removal expert is not easy!
Some businesses claim that their process removes odors. In reality, many businesses will add masking agents to their rinse chemicals that will cover up the odor … for a day or two.
Some businesses will even walk through your home with a spray can of something else that will leave your home smelling great … again, for a day or two.
Some businesses will even go as far as to add ozone to your indoor environment. “These machines are insidious. Marketed as a strong defense against indoor air pollution, they emit ozone, the same chemical that the ARB and the EPA (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency) have been trying to eliminate from our air for decades,” said acting ARB Chairperson Barbara Riordan. These devices purposely emit ozone, the major component of smog, to clean the air, REALLY! [January 25, 2005 press release from the California EPA]
What is needed is a business that doesn’t use additives or one that doesn’t walk through your home with a can of spray. Also, I think we can all agree that a business that adds ozone to the air that we breathe is a business to avoid.
Oriental Rugs cannot be cared for like your carpet!
Fine oriental rugs are very costly and are made from fragile natural fibers, dyes, and foundation materials that cannot be cleaned in the way we usually clean synthetic carpets.
The most effective professional carpet cleaning systems involve the use of high heat, high water pressure, extreme agitation, and chemical activity. Most area rugs cannot be cleaned using these tactics. A more gentle “hand washing” process must be used to safely clean area rugs.
Because more time is involved in hand washing and more complex cleaning products must be utilized to avoid damaging the fibers and dyes, you would expect that area rug cleaning would be more costly than standard carpet cleaning. It is.
Because of the dense pile construction of area rugs, dirt particles work their way down through the fibers – to the backing foundation of the rug where they cannot be removed by ordinary vacuuming.
This loose grit wreaks havoc on your rug’s delicate fibers, causing a cutting abrasive action as you walk on the rug. Abrasion accounts for fiber loss (wear) and embedded soil stains.
Other types of soil including food particles and pet oils “hide” in the dense pile, making your rugs an ideal haven for germs, bacteria, and other nasty creatures such as dust mites!
Dust mites are too small to be seen but are the most common cause of year-round allergy and asthma. They live in mattresses, pillows, carpets, rugs, furniture, bedcovers, and clothes – anywhere they can feed on dead flakes of human skin.
All foreign pollutants in your rugs should be removed by professional cleaning on a regular basis to keep your rugs “healthy”.
We haven’t even touched on the wide range of dying techniques and dying agents used in other countries. Because of these agents and techniques, many hand crafted area rugs have a tendency to bleed.
Furthermore, proper care of fringes is vital to the longevity of your treasure. Simply bleaching the fringe is not a good idea.
Your home is dry when the measuring devices say so.
There will be many measurement taken in your home during the drying process. Several places where the moisture has invaded, as well as several places where the moisture avoided. There will also be measurements taken outside.
Why? To prevent microbial growth. The restoration professional wants to ensure that your home is returned to its pre-loss condition. Not only do we want to make sure that everything that you see is dry, but we want to make sure that places you don’t see are dry too. Places like; inside your walls, under your carpet, your wood floors too. These area’s are just a few of the area’s that microbial growth can occur. After all, we want your home to be healthy.
These measurements will be taken throughout the entire drying process. When the measuring devices say that the effected area’s are the same as the unaffected area’s, and that the wood is at normal range for that species … your home is dry.
